Where: Bells at Killcare

At: 107 The Scenic Road, Killcare

Style: Modern Australian/Italian

Business category: Restaurant

WE DECIDE to visit Bells at Killcare because we have been Steve Manfredi fans for many years. Indeed, one of our group of six could be called a “Manfredi Tragic” as she diligently clips his column from the Sydney Morning Herald newspaper each week to compile her own alphabetical cuttings file of his seasonal produce hints.

Initial contact with the Bells establishment—which also comprises a luxury spa retreat as well as Manfredi’s restaurant—led us to believe the exec chef himself would be present on the night we planned to visit. We organise an overnight stay at the attached accommodation and are told our package includes a three course dinner.

On checking in we were handed copies of the current menu and also the Truffle Menu which we scrutinise in our rooms during the afternoon, discussing if we would prefer the Berkshire Black Pork Pancetta with Truffle Mustard Dressing and Winter Leaf salad “from our garden” ($29) or the Grilled King Prawns with Truffled Winter Vegetable Puree ($42). The standard menu is organised into eight sections and we discuss, at length, the various course configurations; is it preferable to have antipasti, soup, secundi or the primi, pasta and dolci? Needless to say, we all choose different combinations but not to worry, the wait staff will sort us out.

We are slightly disarmed then, when we are arrive and are seated at the brimming 60 seat restaurant and are handed the “Locals Night” menu; two courses for $35. After twenty minutes we are able to negotiate with a waiter to be shown copies of the regular menu and the Truffle Menu. We get the feeling though that we are being discouraged in our quest to stray from the specials menu.

Two of us decide on the Ox-tail with Chestnut Cabbage Roll but unfortunately there’s none left. We stick to our guns and order from the non-specials menus and live to regret this decision. One of our party end up with a back up of two courses in front of him and another, who opts for a Wagyu Beef Rib-eye with Truffles and Red Wine sauce, ($65) waits one and a half hours for a morsel to cross her lips.

We are pleased the Italian influence is well supported in the dishes we choose by the incorporation of fresh and seasonal vegetables some of which come straight from the garden just next to the kitchen. The truffles, of course aren’t local—they are from Manjimup, Western Australia.

The Pan-fried Scallops with Celeriac, Anchovy and Roast Garlic Salsa ($22, $33) blends well with the secondi of Roast pork loin and crackling with the truly delicious Cavolo Nero Gratinata and Mustard Fruit Sauce ($39).

The Grilled Duck Sausages with Caramelised Apple, Kipler Potatoes and Milawa Mustard ($23, $34) carries rich flavours and enhance the appetite for the Roast Rabbit Leg stuffed with Veal Sweetbreads served with a beautifully balanced White Garlic Mustard Sauce ($36). The Seafood and Barley stew proves to be an interesting blend of calamari, vongole, mussels and salt cod. We choose a side of green beans with parsley and garlic to accompany it ($12).

After two and a half hours we realise most of the patrons and the waiters have left. We presume this is because they have all been served their two courses and have set off home. We the in house guests, however, are still looking forward to our dolci and seek out a waiter.

He looks like he would also prefer to be heading home—it’s been a long and busy night. There has clearly been some confusion caused by mixing menus and pre-paid packages. We order from the selection of gelati and sorbetti and the Espresso, Cardamom and Mastic Pannacotta which is well worth the wait ($14.50).

The next morning we dine on the provided breakfast hamper. It’s truly excellent and contains Steve Manfredi’s muesli, delicious continental-style sausages, tomatoes, mushrooms, fruit and sourdough. The facilities at Bells make a breakfast cook-up a welcome part of the experience in delightful surroundings.

Overall, our experience was enjoyable but advance notification that the evening we planned to dine happend to be a “Locals Night” would probably have persuaded me to change the booking for another time. Fine dining like that which is offered at Bells and Tuesday Night specials don’t seem to marry well.

Perhaps it is best to go on the weekends when Steve Manfredi is present. Bells is striving to be, according to its website, an “authentic regional restaurant” and it is to be commended for employing local staff and encouraging local patronage.

However, executive chefs who are increasingly associating their names with restaurants of destination, must be able to ensure quality control in their absence. Nonetheless, my “tragic” friend has vowed to maintain her Manfredi clippings file.